Of Cows and Paradors

On the tour that we had to Finisterre, our guide Reuben talked about one of Galicia's most important topics: cows. Apparently, Galicia is like the Wisconsin of Spain. According to Reuben, a town may consist of two people and 300 cows. The Galicia region produces about 60 percent of the milk in Spain. The cows eat a fermented corn mash that smells terrible but that they love. There are strict rules regarding milk production. Antibiotics are prohibited. 

Here's Reuben. He told us some funny things about the care of cows. He said that the farmers are very concerned about the well being of the cows. Happy cows produce more milk and for a longer period of time. The farmers experimented with playing music for the cows. Rock music stressed the cows out and decreased the milk production. Music that was too soft didn't help them either. But what the cows did like was pop music. Reuben said he laughed so hard when he went to a farm and "Dancing Queen" by Abba was playing for the cows. 

From the subject of cows, we will move to Santiago's fanciest and most expensive hotel, or parador, Hostal dos Reis Catolicos. Parador was a new word for me and refers to luxury hotels in Spain. Hostal dos Reis Catolicos is at the top of this list.

It was commissioned by Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand in 1486 to help care for pilgrims who has made the arduous journey to Santiago. It fronts one of the same plazas as the Cathedral. Over the years, many doctors trained at the facility.

According to Wikipedia, Hostal des Reis Catolicos is considered the oldest, continuously operating hotel in the world. Over the years, it transitioned from a place that cared for pilgrims into a parador. It is considered one of the finest hotels in the world.

The parador is constructed around several courtyards.

Above is a 16th century wood carving that was in the entrance hall.

This contribution container in the entrance of the parador has a sign above it that says, "He who gives to the poor shall not suffer poverty."

Day 9: Santiago de Compostella!

 

As we set out for our last day of walking, these feet look better than they feel. But they have served us well.

Though I am eager to get to Santiago, in some ways, I wish this pilgrimage would never end. I guess you could say it doesn't.

Thinking about the many pilgrims--peregrinos--who walked by this door.

So many lovely sights along the way.

To take our minds off the hill we are about to ascend, we talk about the things on the Camino that surprised us and that we learned. Given the warnings about the rainy weather, I was surprised by all the sunny days. I learned that I have to learn the same things over and over (patience, living in the moment, not jumping to quick conclusions).

As the day wore on, we said extra prayers.

The cows always provided comic relief. "I'm not ready for my closeup," the one above seems to be thinking. The two scents that I will forever associate with the Camino are fresh mountain air and cow manure. The ying and the yang.

These adorable dogs were funny too. They were yapping up a storm; definitely not camino dogs who barely glance our way as we walk by.

We have shared the Camino with quite a few bikers. They go fast on the downhill, but in the mud, not so much.

As Santiago approaches, we will leave the countryside behind.

And start to see the scallop on roads.

And sidewalks.

At a hill overlooking the city is a Monument to Pope St. John Paul II and St. Francis of Assisi, both pilgrims to Santiago.

We approach the city blessedly on the downhill.

This Templar Knight pilgrim greeted us as we entered Santiago. The Templar Knights helped protect the Camino route, among other things. Though we are in the city, we still have a couple more miles to go.

Our first glimpse of the Cathedral. "A Pilgrim's Guide to the Camino de Santiago"--the bible for the Camino--by John Brierley that we have been following says to take time to arrive and honor one's reactions. A few things about this: we aren't able to take much time because upon arrival, we have only a half hour to check into the hotel, which is fortunately across the street from the Cathedral, and then find the chapel in the Cathedral where Mass is being celebrated. 

At any rate, my first reactions are relief that we have finally arrived; I'm exhausted (I understand why St. Francis of Assisi, who was also a Camino pilgrim, referred to the body as Brother Donkey) and slight disappointment that one of the spires of the Cathedral is covered in scaffolding. But never mind because I have learned not to always trust my first impressions and there are more chapters to this story!

On the way to the Cathedral we meet our new friends from Australia. They started on March 23 and walked the entire Camino!

Father Michael prepares to celebrate Mass for our group in the Chapel of the Pillar.

The red Cross of St. James, high on the chapel wall.

The chapel ceiling.

The ever present scallop shell, now at the source of its symbol. So is the pilgrimage complete?

Day Two: From Ambasmestras to O'Cebreiro

I am starting at the end of day 2 with the above picture. Luke, John, myself, and Peggy are sitting on wall in the town of O'Cebreiro, a town we climbed about 2,000 meters to reach. I don't know if it was because of the exhilaration of the upward hike or the fact that our legs are still fairly fresh, but it wasn't too hard of a walk.

We left for our about 8 mile walk and the first town we came to had a castle overlooking it.

A bridge constructed by the Romans spans the Valcarce river. Those Romans knew how to build bridges and roads.

We are now in the Galicia region of Spain, which is lush and green.

Lots of interesting looking windows.

A cow strolling through town with her sisters, like they are beauty pageant contestants.

Climbing the beautiful hills.

                   

We are headed the right direction.

Luke is hanging tough.

And so is Peggy. We are almost there.

We had Mass at St. Maria of the Real. A miracle took place at this church. A terrible snowstorm was raging outside and the tired priest thought he would be able to cancel Mass when in walked one peasant who had battled the elements to be there. The priest grudgingly celebrated Mass and at the Consecration, the host and wine turned into actual flesh and blood. 

Apparently, there was another such miracle more recently in Buenos Aires and the presiding archbishop had the flesh sent to a lab for analysis. The tissue was heart tissue. The archbishop was Jorge Mario Bergoglio (AKA Pope Francis).

We will think about the persistence of that peasant pilgrim and miracles as we continue through the days.

First Day on the Camino: From Villafranca del Bierzo to Ambasmestas

On our pilgrimage, we have Mass each evening. Above is the altar at the church in Villafranca del Bierzo, our starting point on the Camino. The Franca part of the village's name is due to its French heritage; many pilgrims from France never returned home, but stayed on the Camino route, offering hospitality to those who came after them. On the eve of our pilgrimage, we prayed for strength to make the journey and discernment of God's voice to us on the Camino. 

Here is the first part of a Camino prayer:

O God, who brought Your servant Abraham 

Out of the land of the Chaldeans,

Protecting him in his wanderings,

Who guided the Hebrew people

Across the dessert, we ask that You

Watch over us, Your servants,

As we walk in the love of Your Name

To Santiago de Compostela.

As we leave the town of Villafranca del Bierzo, we pass by the Door of Pardon in the Church of Santiago. In past times, pilgrims who made it this far but because of illness or injury could not carry on to Santiago would receive full credit for the pilgrimage when they passed through this door.
Thinking of the miles that lie before us, a few pilgrims joke about wishing the door was open.

And we're off! Here's a pic of me with Peggy Arizzi, who was the person God used to invite us on the pilgrimage. We are very grateful to her!

The yellow arrow or scallop shell or some combination, like above, will help guide us.

Our guide Jeffrey, above, leads us to the first town. Jeffrey has been with us the past couple of days, explaining much about Spanish and Camino history and culture to us. He is bidding us adieu here.

Luke is displaying the scallop shell marked with the red cross of St James, indicating he is a pilgrim on the Camino.

Our first day is a relatively easy, short 8 mile hike on flat terrain.

We pass beautiful flowers.

Rustic-looking windows.

And cows, lots of cows. Galician cows that Jeffrey has warned us we will take photos of. We will soon be coming to the province of Galicia, and the Galicians are proud of their cows and the delicious cheese their milk makes.

Above, some of our group stops at a cafe for a bite to eat. All pilgrims carry a special pilgrim passport. We must collect two stamps for each day we are on the Camino to present in Santiago for a special certificate, the Compostela, which shows we completed the pilgrimage. Pilgrims must walk 100 kilometers to be eligible. We will be walking about 200 kilometers. These stamps are very easy to collect, as most cafes, churches, restaurants, and hotels have them. 

Luke pretending to knock on a door on the Camino route. "I've had enough!' Actually, on this first day, we are surprised how fast the journey went. But we were warned repeatedly by our guide Jeffrey that tomorrow, Day 2, will be the hardest day, as much of the route is uphill.

 So we pray at the end of the day in the church at Ambasmestas. We pray in thanksgiving and ask God for his forgiveness and to be with us on the Camino. Here is the second part of a Camino Prayer.

Be for us our Companion on the walk,

Our Guide at the crossroads,

Our Breath in our weariness,

Our Protection in danger, 

Our Albergue on the Camino,

Our Shade in the heat,

Our Light in the darkness,

Our Consolation in our discouragements,

And our Strength in our intentions.

So that with Your Guidance we may arrive safe

And sound at the end of the road

And enriched with grace and virtue

We return safely to our homes filled with joy.

In the Name of Jesus our Lord,

Amen.

Apostle Santiago, Pray for us.

Santa Maria, Pray for us.

St. Ignatius, Pray for us.