Way of the Star: Chartres

Chartres en Lumiere

We had heard that the Chartres Cathedral was illuminated at night. The woman who sold us creme glacee told us this happened at 9:30 pm. In Ireland, Scotland, and France, it stays light now until past 9 pm.

So around 10 pm, we drove from our hotel to the Cathedral, expecting to see the above. Which we did. But it quickly got more exciting.

To be honest, at first it seemed a little too Las Vegas for a revered Cathedral.

Luke in front of the front doors of the Cathedral, taking it all in.

But then I thought of the light show as a metaphor for our faith. It is supposed to be dynamic and growing.

I was imagining what it would be like for the people from the Middle Ages who helped to build the Cathedral to see this show. I think they would like it.

This light show was a total surprise to us. We weren't expecting anything like this.

It grew on me. It helped that beautiful and holy music accompanied the lights.

The Cafe Life in Chartres

Besides being the home of the quintessential Gothic cathedral, Chartres is also a very charming French town. Its population is about 40,000 but can swell to more than 100,000 during the tourist season.

We had lunch in a cafe. Look at the bread our ham and cheese sandwiches came on! We saw lots of people carrying loaves of bread like this bought from the bakeries that seem to be on every block.

The French like flowers and other beautiful things in all kinds of places.

These tiles were on the public sidewalk.

These pyramid-shaped trees were standing at attention in a cemetery.

Luke and John up by the Cathedral.

Watching the world go by at another cafe in Chartres. We saw all kinds of people--students coming from school, moms pushing baby strollers, kids on bikes and scooters, older people hand in hand. Lots of skinny jeans. I think I could spend a major part of my life sitting in a cafe.

But soon it will be onto Normandy.

Chartres Cathedral

This is Cathedrale Notre Dame de Chartres, more commonly known as Chartres Cathedral. It is one of more than 100 churches dedicated to Mary throughout France. In honor of our Scottish friends, we walked the 2.5 miles from our hotel to the Cathedral.

According to Rick Steves, this church is at least the 4th one to occupy this spot. Construction began in 1194, after a fire destroyed most of the existing church.

Getting closer.

The Chartres Cathedral was constructed in record-breaking time. The dedication Mass was held in 1260. Contrast this 66 years with the centuries it took to build Notre Dame in Paris. Some of the children who saw the church burn in 1194 were around for its dedication. There is something poignant, though, about people working to build a church when they know they won't live to see its completion. We all have work like that.

Arrived! Looking at the spires of the great cathedral: the one one the right is of Romanesque style and survived the 1194 fire. The very gothic spire on the left was added in the 1500's.

Chartres Cathedral tells the story of Christianity in sculpture and stained glass windows.

The round window above is one of three rose windows in the Cathedral. Mary and the Baby Jesus are in the middle surrounded by prophets, kings of Judah, doves, and angels.

Above, the raison d'etre for the Cathedral: the veil Mary supposedly wore when she gave birth to Jesus. Formally known as the Sancta Camisia, it was given to Chartres by King Charles the Bald in 876. It was thought destroyed in the fire of 1194, but three days later was found and inspired the building of the new church.

Chartres contains one of the most famous labyrinths in the world. Pilgrims who didn't have the means to go to Jerusalem or Rome or Santiago could journey to Chartres and walk the labyrinth. Currently in Chartres, chairs cover most of the labyrinth. The entry point is pictured above and the ending below.

Above is a postcard of what the labyrinth in Chartres looks like. Pilgrims enter the labyrinth; they pray and meditate on God and their lives as they wind their way through, ending in the center, which represents the Jerusalem on earth and the one in heaven that we all aspire to.

Mary ascending to heaven.

Above is the Blue Virgin window, which was behind the altar of the church that burned in 1194. Mary, in blue, holds Jesus while the dove of the Holy Spirit descends upon them.

Sculptures in the church: above is a tableau of the Holy Family. Mary sews while Joseph dreams.

Above, Jesus draws in the sand and forgives the woman who committed adultery.

Chartres is undergoing some renovations. Look at the difference above between the choir sculptures on the right that have been restored and those on the left that have not yet.